Mit Blechbüchse und Dampfross durch Indien
„Das ist die beste Busfahrt meines bisherigen Lebens.“
Als ich (Alex) das sagte, kam uns die Idee zu einem Gastbeitrag von mir für Caros Blog.
Es war der staatliche Direktbus um 15:30 Uhr von Munnar (Kerala) nach Coimbatore (Tamil Nadu). Die Fahrt begann pünktlich und überhaupt wirkte das übliche Duo aus Fahrer und Schaffner auffallend ruhig und korrekt. Nur unsere großen Backpacks wollten sie nicht beide direkt hinter der Frontscheibe des Busses stehen haben. Der Schaffner schien weniger überrascht als wir, dass einer der Rucksäcke tatsächlich in die Gepäckablage über den Sitzen passte. Wieder waren wir die einzigen Ausländer und wieder schienen alle anderen selbst diese lange Strecke fast ohne Gepäck zu reisen.
Noch zwei Tickets je 167 Rupien – kaum mehr als zwei Euro – bezahlt und am Fensterplatz so bequem wie möglich gemacht. Ins Luftlinie vielleicht 100 Kilometer entfernte Coimbatore waren es auf der Straße über 160 und das sollte sechs Stunden Fahrt entsprechen. Also eine Durchschnittsgeschwindigkeit unter 30 km/h.
Warum, wurde schnell klar. Der Bus ähnelte wie die meisten anderen einer mehr oder weniger zerbäulten Blechbüchse auf einem quietschenden, ächzenden, heulenden und ratternden Fahrgestell. Aber der Fahrer schien die eigentlich nur aus Kurven bestehende Bergpassage nicht im lebensmüden Tempo der Lokalbusse fahren zu wollen, wie wir es Tage zuvor erlebt hatten. Auf unserer letzten Fahrt im Dunkeln musste sich sogar ein Local übergeben. Jetzt ging es in Schrittgeschwindigkeit und mit ungewöhnlich wenig Gehupe den Anstieg hoch durch die Berglandschaft, vorbei an Teeplantagen, Wasserfällen und Dörfern. Allein diese entschleunigte Art des Reisens war – speziell in Indien – für mich eine besondere Freude
Als der höchste Punkt der Strecke überwunden war und der Bus Fahrt aufnahm, veränderte sich die Szenerie. Die Teeplantagen wichen Dschungel und im Tal war ein Fluss zu sehen. Elefantenwarnschilder weckten unsere Neugier. Tatsächlich führte die einzige Straße nordwärts genau durch das Naturschutzgebiet Chinnar Wildlife Sanctuary, für das im Rahmen von Jeepsafaris üppige Eintrittsgelder verlangt wurden. Auch ohne Tiere war die in eine Steppe übergehende Landschaft im Sonnenuntergang spektakulär.
An den zahlreichen Speedbumpern bremste der Bus immer wieder stark ab. Doch als er zum kompletten Stillstand kam und das auch noch auf der rechten – falschen – Straßenseite, guckten nicht nur wir neugierig, was uns da die Fahrt versperrt. Es war nichts. Aber dann zeigte der Schaffner nach rechts und erst da verstanden wir, dass der Bus gehalten hatte, weil der Fahrer einige Meter rechts der Straße einen Elefanten bemerkt hatte, der dort genüsslich von einem Busch aß. Nur ein paar Sekunden Halt, ein Foto, schon beschleunigten wir wieder. An der Grenze des Schutzgebiets wurde der Bus angehalten und unser Gapäck durchsucht oder zumindest abgetastet. Wahrscheinlich suchten sie nach verbotenen tierischen Souvenirs. Andererseits konnte es auch der Grenzposten von Kerala in den Bundestaat Tamil Nadu sein. Später rollten wir im Dunkeln durch eine Stadt mit tausend Lichtern und Gerüchen der Streetfoodstände. Ich glaube es war der Moment, in dem ich meinte „Das ist die beste Busfahrt meines bisherigen Lebens.“
Normalerweise nehme ich lieber einen Zug als den Bus. In Indien fuhren wir aber nur relativ kurze Strecken von etwa einer Stunde Fahrzeit mit den staatlichen Zügen – mit einer Ausnahme: Die fünfstündige Fahrt auf der Nilgiri Mountain Railway. Ich hatte mir schon vor unserer Reise aus dem Lonely Planet Buch „Legendäre Zugreisen“ Strecken entlang unserer geplanten Route rausgesucht. In Südindien war es die eingleisige Schmalspurbahn von Mettupalayam in die Nilgiri Berge, hoch nach Ooty (auch Udagamandalam) – sie zählt zum UNESCO Welterbe.
In Coimbatore begann der Trip mit einer Uberfahrt (günstiger als Autorikscha / „Tuk Tuk“) zum Bahnhof, um dort in den modernsten indischen Zug zu steigen, den wir auf unserer Reise gesehen haben. Ein elektrischer Nahverkehrszug, etwa zu zwei Dritteln gefüllt, der uns in unter einer Stunde zum Startpunkt der Nilgiri Mountain Railway nach Mettupalayam brachte. Im Gegensatz zu den Fernzügen wurden diese Pendlerzüge nicht auf der offiziellen Buchungsplattform irctc.com/in angezeigt, sondern nur in Google Maps und in einigen Foren – vermutlich weil es ohnehin keine Sitzplatzreservierung gab. Das Ticket kauften wir am Bahnhof. In Mettupalayam übernachteten wir, da unser Zug am nächsten morgen um 9:10 Uhr abfuhr.
Es war ein Sonderzug, der nur samstags bergauf und sonntags bergab fährt. Dieses Ticket hatten wir einige Tage zuvor online gebucht. Zwar machte es uns die Indian Railway mit wechselnden Fehlermeldungen wirklich nicht einfach, irgendwann war es uns dann aber wie durch Zufall doch gelungen, einen Account anzulegen und zwei Tickets zu kaufen. Die Sonderfahrt kostete ein vielfaches des regulären Preises, aber die Fahrten um 7:10 Uhr morgends sind schon Wochen vorab ausgebucht. Die Chancen auf „Tatkal“ genannte Last-Minute-Tickets, welche erst am Tag zuvor freigegeben werden oder die Möglichkeit, schon um vier Uhr morgends am Bahnhof Schlange zu stehen, um eins der nicht Online-Tickets zu ergattern, schien uns die Ersparnis nicht wert. Dann lieber gleich Erste Klasse für je knapp 1.600 Rupien (~20€) – wir zahlten ja sonst meist nur wenige Euro für den Transport.
So begann das Erlebnis morgends am Bahnhof mit einem Willkommensgeschenk, welches im Sonderpreis inbegriffen ist: eine Flasche Wasser, eine Packung Tee, ein Schlüsselan- hänger, ein Flyer und eine Marke für eine Tasse Tee und Samosa beim Zwischenhalt auf der Strecke. Im Lonely Planet waren tolle Fotos einer blauen Dampflok zu sehen gewesen. Trotzdem kam meine freudige Sicherheit erst, als ich sah, dass genau diese mit Öl befeuerte Lok bereitstand, die vier oder fünf kleinen Waggons, Asiens steilste Bahnstrecke hinaufzuschieben. Zunächst ging es noch flach durch die Kleinstadt und vorgelagerte Ortschaften, dann konnte man vorne immer klarer die Berge erkennen. Als der Anstieg begann, klingte sich die Lok in eine Zahnschiene zwischen den Gleisen ein. An jeder Station hielt der Zug einige Minuten um Wasser für die Lok nachzufüllen, was den Fahrgästen Gelegenheit zum Aussteigen bot. Aber Vorsicht: Fast bei jedem Halt lauern Makakenaffen, die vom Proviant der Reisenden angelockt, frech genug sind, in die Waggons zu klettern und alles zu durchsuchen. Unterhaltsam und lästig zugleich.
Es stellte sich heraus, dass die linke Seite, auf der wir saßen, die spektakulärsten Ausblicke bot. Auch unsere Position im vordersten Waggon war vorteilhaft, besonders wenn die Lok ausgerechnet im Tunnel schlapp machte und ihn mit Ruß füllte, während der Kesseldruck soweit gesteigert wurde, bis sich der Zug wieder in Bewegung setzte.
Am besondersten waren die Überquerungen der schwindlig schmalen Brücken, von denen aus sich ein fantastischer Blick in die umliegenden Berge öffnet, während dazwischen zunächst Tunnel und Dschungel, später Teeplantagen und Bergwald die Strecke säumten. In Coonoor, etwa auf halber Strecke, wurde die Dampflok von einer Diesellokomotive abgelöst, welche die restliche Strecke ohne Hilfe eines Zahnrads bewältigte.
Verglichen mit Zugfahrten in den Bergen von Sri Lanka war es nicht in erster Linie die Landschaft, welche diese Fahrt außergewöhnlich machte. Sie war zwar wunderschön und sehr abwechslungsreich, aber erst mit der zischenden, schnaufenden und bollernden Zahnrad-Dampflock auf schmaler Spur wurde es zur legendären Zugreise. Und vielleicht auch mit dem Wissen, dass die Britischen Kolonialherren vor langer Zeit mit sehr ähnlicher Technik dieselbe Strecke zurücklegten, um vor der brennenden Sonne in die kühlen Berge zu flüchten.
Insgesamt kann ich nur empfehlen, auf Reisen die öffentlichen Verkehrsmittel zu nutzen, wenn man die Zeit dafür hat und sich fit genug fühlt. Es ist in der Regel extrem günstig, authentisch, abenteuerlich und abgesehen von der ersten Klasse auf Touristenstrecken wie der Nilgiri Mountain Railway, kommt man fast zwangsläufig mit Locals in Kontakt.
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