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Morgens noch die nächste Reiseroute rausgesucht und sich vom Ayurveda-Doc verabschiedet, dann ging es los. Wir merkten leider schnell, dass wir im Süden zu viele Ziele für zu wenig Zeit hatten. Also mussten wir streichen und es blieb: Unawatuna.
Wir sollten Weihnachten also dort verbringen. Das war eine schräge Sache sag ich euch. Aber fangen wir von vorne an:
Wir fuhren mit dem Zug dorthin, was alleine schon abenteuerlich war. Eine absolute Klischee-Fahrt: alles voller Menschen, die sich in den Zug quetschten. Man konnte sich kaum bewegen. Hier das Miteinander zu erleben war schön. Jeder half Jedem.
Unser Hotel lag direkt am Strand und war insgesamt sehr schön. Nach dem Ankommen erkundeten wir erst ein wenig die Umgebung und legten uns später an den Strand und tranken einen Cocktail – grandios.
Am nächsten Tag war Heiligabend, den wir tagsüber in Galle verbrachten. Eine Stadt mit europäischer Architektur. Galle’s Festung, von den Portugiesen erbaut und den Niederländern erweitert und die schöne Altstadt sind Weltkulturerbe.
Als wir uns die Festung ansahen und den Wall entlang gingen, zog ein gewaltiges Gewitter auf – ein tolles Naturschauspiel. Wir lieben ja beide Gewitter. Aber auf einmal: BAM! Muss neben uns ein Blitz eingeschlagen haben. Es gab einen unfassbar lauten Knall. Das haben wir beide so noch nicht erlebt. Wir dachten eigentlich, die Lautstärke des Gewitters auf Borneo ist nicht zu toppen – das hier überstieg es jedoch bei Weitem!
Auf dem Weg zurück zum Bus, sprach uns ein Local an. Wir kamen sehr nett ins Gespräch. Er sagte ziemlich schnell von sich aus, dass er kein Geld von uns will, dass er eine Arbeit hat und gutes Geld verdient. Er war einfach sehr interessiert an uns und dem Kulturaustausch, weshalb er uns kurzerhand zu einem lokalen Markt führte. Er ging mit uns die Stände durch und erklärte die verschiedenen Sorten.
Da wir gerne Tee kaufen wollten, brachte er uns zu einem kleinen „Kiosk“, der wohl schon von BBC portraitiert und ausgezeichnet wurde. Der Besitzer war sehr herzlich und nahm sich viel Zeit, uns die verschiedenen Teesorten und Gewürze zu erklären und probieren zu lassen. Wir entschieden uns für schwarze Tees, Chilli und eine Art Kandiszucker: süße Honigklumpen, die man in den Tee gibt. Total lecker.
Anschließend brachte uns der nette Herr zu unserem Bus und fragte uns nach kleinen deutschen Münzen, weil sein Sohn sie sammelt. Das war eine wirklich tolle, sehr herzliche Begegnung.
Die Busse hier sind ein Highlight für sich. Die fahren total irre, was kein Wunder ist, wenn man sich das Innere anguckt: quietsch bunt, laute Musik über ein Fernseher und die Fahrer kauten auf Tabak oder Blättern herum, die verdächtig an Drogen erinnerten. Die Busse hier sind Privateigentum, deshalb sieht auch jeder anders aus.
Zurück im Hotel machten wir uns fertig für unser kleines Weihnachten. Alex und ich schleppten tatsächlich unsere Geschenke mit uns mit, sodass wir eine kleine Bescherung machen konnten. Wir aßen total geilen, frischen Fisch, den wir wir uns vorher selbst aussuchten. Er wurde frisch vor unseren Augen gegrillt. Mega.
Das Hotel und der gesamte Strand waren hell beleuchtet, was dazu führte, dass die Stromleitungen dermaßen überlastet waren und es alle paar Minuten zu einem Totalausfall den gesamten Strand entlang kam. Irgendwann merkten sie wohl, dass sie zu viele Quellen hatten und machten etwas weniger Lichter an.
Vom ständigen Stromausfall war natürlich auch die Musikanlage betroffen, die – haltet euch fest – stimmungsvolle Weihnachtsmusik in Form von 90ˋer Techno lauthals über den Strand ausspuckte. Was ein Fest! Wir konnten gar nicht fassen, wie surreal diese Situation war. So haben wir Weihnachten garantiert noch nie gefeiert.
Der Techno lief bis tief in die Nacht – extrem laut. Mich hat es irgendwie nicht vom einschlafen abgehalten. Alex hingegen lag ewig wach, der Arme!
Am nächsten Tag machte Alex noch einen Ausflug ohne mich. Er ging zum jungle beach und zur japanischen Friedenspagode. Ich chillte derweil noch am Strand.
Anschließend ging es für uns mit Zug und Bus weiter nach Tangalle in ein Guesthouse. Die Unterkunft war toll! Wieder einmal total herzliche Menschen und ein schönes Grundstück: mitten im Grünen. Man könnte es sogar leicht vor lauter Garten übersehen.
In fußläugiger Nähe war der silent beach: unser Lieblingsstrand. Die Sonne war gnadenlos und es gab nur sehr wenig Schatten spendende Palmen – zumindest wenige, unter die man sich legen durfte. Ein Resort direkt am Strand reservierte die meisten Schattenplätze. Legte man sich zu nah heran, kam ein Securitymann und scheuchte uns weg. Hört sich erstmal nicht nach einem idyllischen Fleckchen an – war es aber trotzdem absolut.
Die Wellen hier waren am besten: wir sprangen ihnen wild entschlossen entgegen – das war ein Spaß! Der Sog zurück ins Meer war so stark, dass man manchmal das Gleichgewicht verlor, mitgerissen wurde und nicht mehr wusste, wo oben oder unten ist. Hier hatten wir wirklich einen Heidenspaß und eine gute Zeit.
An einem unserer Tage hier liehen wir uns zwei Scooter aus und machten einen Ausflug zu einem Kloster. Das stand auf einem kleinen Berg und sah wunderschön aus. Ich freute mich sehr auf unseren Besuch. Leider wurde der Ausflug zu einem Horrortrip – aber immerhin wurden wir von einem Mönch gesegnet.
Schon als wir los fuhren, deutete sich ein Unwetter an. Wir wollten dennoch fahren: „Dann stellen wir uns eben irgendwo unter“. Also fuhren wir los und schauten uns die Gegend an. Hierbei machte ich die erste – ich glaube aber auch die einzige – unangenehme Begegnung mit einem Local. Ein junger Mann fuhr neben mir und wollte mit mir ins Gespräch kommen, dachte ich zumindest. Er kam immer dichter mit seinem Roller an meinen heran und er versuchte irgendwas zu greifen. Auf mein Nachfragen reagierte er nicht. Ich dachte er will mir etwas zeigen oder so. Dann aber kam er nah genug, um mir volle Kanne zwischen die Beine zu greifen. Zuerst war ich total perplex, dann fuchtelte ich mit meinen Armen rum und Alex schrie ihn hinter mir an, er solle sich verziehen. Das tat er dann auch. Das war eine sehr seltsame und unangenehme Situation.
Pünktlich als wir ankamen, fing es an zu nieseln. Wir gingen trotzdem hoch und kamen bis zum Eingang. Hier stand der erste Tempel, in den wir gingen. Wir trafen auf einen Mönch, der schnell gutes Karma bei uns beiden spürte. Er schenkte uns ein Armband und wickelte es uns um das Handgelenk, während er dabei ein Gebet laut aufsagte. Das war irgendwie ein sehr bewegender und besonderer Moment.
Noch völlig geflasht von der Begegnung und überglücklich, dass wir so gutes Karma hatten, traten wir aus dem Tempel hinaus und – Weltuntergangsstimmung. Es schüttete wie aus Eimern. Da hat unser gutes Karma ganze Arbeit geleistet! Wir prusteten los und stellten uns unter – totaler Slapstick.
Aus unser anfänglichen Leichtigkeit wurde schnell Sorge: wir mussten ja noch zurück fahren, sicher gute 20 km. Wir hatten also die Wahl: entweder warten bis es besser wird, dabei aber riskieren, dass es schnell dunkel wird oder jetzt im Hellen fahren, im strömenden Regen. Beide Optionen waren Mist. Wir warteten zunächst. Der Mönch lächelte und bot uns Bananen an während wir warteten. Süßer Mönch.
Als wir merkten, dass der Regen leider nicht aufhören wird, entschieden wir uns zu fahren. Puh, das war abenteuerlich – vor allem aber anstrengend. Man hat kaum einen Meter weit gucken können. Wir hatten keine regenfeste Hülle fürˋs Handy, weshalb wir immer wieder stoppen und nachschauen mussten, ob wir noch auf dem richtigen Weg waren. Ich hatte – warum auch immer – keine Jacke mit und fuhr mit einem mittlerweile völlig durchnässten und durchsichtigen, weil weißen T-Shirt rum. Das war mir so unangenhem! Und sau kalt war es auch. Wir konnten natürlich auch nicht schnell fahren, weswegen wir auch viel länger brauchten.
Boah, alles in allem war das wirklich richtig scheiße. Muss ich wirklich sagen. Ich kann ja vielem – und vor allem dem Scooterfahren – doch was Gutes abgewinnen, aber das brauche ich garantiert kein zweites Mal. Ich weiß nicht, ob es sich wirklich so schlimm anhört, wie es für uns war?! Ein Albtraum!
Auf unser Bändchen wurden wir übrigens noch mehrfach angesprochen von Locals: „Ah, ihr habt gutes Karma!“ Sodass wir nicht glauben, dass es so ein Touri-Ding, sondern ehrlich gemeint war – schön und stimmig zu unserem Eindruck und Gefühl.
Tangalle war unser letzter Strandabschnitt. Für uns ging es mit dem Bus weiter nach Tissamaharama, wo wir den Yala Nationalpark besuchten.
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