Raus aus dem wuseligen Leben und hinein in die Stille.
Na ja, Stille ist jetzt relativ. Schafft man es, die vier laut bellenden und kämpfenden Hunde zu ignorieren; das allmorgendliche aus den Tempellautsprechern schallende Gebet meditativ zu überhören; die tanzenden oder Karaoke-singenden Partygäste auf den Hausbooten mit einem Augenrollen zu verdrängen; das laute und permanente Ausklopfen der im Fluss gewaschenen Wäsche auszuklammern und das nicht enden wollende und besorgniserregende Husten der Gastgeberin auszublenden, ja, dann hat man Stille.
Ironie beiseite. Es war wirklich wahnsinnig entspannend und erdend in dem Dorf, in dem wir waren (Bei dem Wort „erdend“ merkt man vielleicht, dass ich den Beitrag gerade im Ashram schreibe). Denn Villagelife meint hier wirklich noch Villagelife. Das Nomads Hostel ist ein Homestay und liegt mitten in den Backwaters. Wir wurden von einem alten Mann, der kein Wort Englisch sprach in einem alten Stechkahn abgeholt und zum Homestay gefahren. Umgeben vom Wasser auf der einen und dem traditionellen Dorf auf der anderen Seite, ist das Abschalten und Herunterkommen hier vorprogrammiert.
Es gab genau einen kleinen Kiosk, in dem auch niemand Englisch sprach und ein paar hundert Meter weiter eine Brücke, die die eine Dorfseite mit der gegenüberliegenden verband. Die Menschen hier lebten wirklich am bzw. im Fluss: Sie wuschen sich darin, putzten sich in ihm die Zähne, spülten ihr Geschirr und wuschen dort ihre Wäsche, die sie anschließend kraftvoll gegen die Steine schleuderten. Die Kinder schwammen lachend in ihm und die jungen Männer angelten später die verschiedensten Fische, die es dann zum Abendessen gab. Es war genau so wie man sich das ursprüngliche Leben so vorstellt: einfach und naturverbunden.
In den Rezensionen wurde neben der traumhaften Lage auch die Herzlichkeit der Gastgeberin besonders hervorgehoben. Als wir jedoch ankamen, war sie sehr krank, machte nur das Nötigste und ging dann schlafen. Alles kein Problem – im Gegenteil – das bringt ein Homestay halt so mit sich: Realität. Genau das was man ja möchte.
Sie hat uns sehr leidgetan, sodass wir versucht haben, uns so autark wie möglich zu bewegen. Anfangs haben wir ihre Distanziertheit und herrische Art noch der Krankheit zugeschrieben. Aber nach und nach bekamen wir eher den Eindruck, das sie so ist – zumindest zu uns. Aber auch das ist okay und normal: mit manchen Menschen kann man einfach besser als mit anderen und der falsche oder richtige Zeitpunkt spielt auch eine große Rolle. Also alles gut.
Wir waren insgesamt vier Nächte hier, drei davon waren geplant. Aber dank eines Streiks der Verkehrsmittel saßen wir fest und konnten zum Glück um eine Nacht verlängern, was, wenn wir ehrlich sind, so überhaupt gar nicht schlimm war.
Wir waren außerdem in bester Gesellschaft. Zuerst waren zwei Jungs aus den Staaten da und dann ein Inder mit einer Spanierin zusammen. Alle vier waren super nett, was den Aufenthalt deutlich kommunikativer und herzlicher machte. Mit den Amiˋs schipperten wir zum Abendessen rüber in die Stadt, mit den anderen beiden kochten wir zusammen im Homestay.
Außerdem gab es ein „Restaurant“ auf der anderen Flussseite. Eigentlich war es eine Familie, die ab und zu für die Leute kochte. Es gab also keine Speisekarte oder ähnliches. Es gab ein Thali Veggi, Chicken oder Fish. Lokaler gehtˋs kaum. Wir nahmen Chicken und Fish, was beides ultra lecker war (Nur dieser Kerala-Reis! Der „versaut“ mir immer mein Essen).
An einem Morgen wurden wir um 06.00 Uhr von einem kleinen Bötchen abgeholt für eine Backwaters-Tour zum Sonnenaufgang. Genau so schön wie es sich anhört, war es auch. Wir konnten das alltägliche Leben hautnah miterleben und die wunderschöne Natur um uns herum in ihren verschiedenen Facetten genießen.
Dieses Gefühl, ein gaffender Eindringling in die Privatsphäre der Menschen zu sein, hindert mich jedoch zum einen daran, das Erleben zu 100% zu genießen und zum anderen Fotos von den Menschen zu machen. Wie gerne würde ich z.B. Portraits von diesen schönen und interessanten Leuten machen, traue mich aber nicht. Das soll ja nicht heißen, dass ich respekt- und taktlos sein möchte, aber ich glaube eigentlich schon, dass viele damit einverstanden oder sich sogar freuen würden. Ich hoffe, ich werde dieses Gefühl und die Scheu im Laufe der Zeit noch ablegen.
Am letzten Abend gingen wir mit Celia, der Spanierin und Manuf, dem Inder hinaus auf die Felder. Dort trafen wir auf einen Mann, der … ich kann nicht genau sagen was sein Job war. Um ihn herum waren hunderte Vögel: Enten und Reiher. Wobei er für die Enten zuständig zu sein schien, die er von einer Ecke in die nächste versuchte zu führen. Die Reiher verscheuchte er eher.
Vielleicht war es auch gar nicht sein Job und er wollte nur Eindruck schinden bei uns – was es auch war, das Ergebnis war auf jeden Fall sehr cool: die Reiher flogen immer wieder in Scharen über und neben uns vorbei. Besonders schön wurde es als die Sonne unterging. Ein wahnsinnig schönes Licht und perfekt umrahmt von fliegenden Vögeln, Feldern und Wasser.
Ein perfekter letzter Abend!
Am nächsten Tag ging es für uns wieder aufs Boot. Wir fuhren mehrere Stunden durch die Backwaters zu unserem nächsten Abenteuer: das Ashram.
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