Yala Nationalpark – zwischen Freude und Reue
Einen Elefanten oder gar Leoparden aus der Nähe zu bestaunen ist schon ein unbeschreiblich schönes Gefühl. Zu sehen und zu riechen wie etwa hundert fette Jeeps neben, über, vor und hinter uns und den Tieren ihre Schadstoffe in die Natur setzen, entfacht ein ganz anderes.
Als wir nach einer weiteren Busfahrt in unserer wirklich sehr schönen neuen Unterkunft ankamen, eröffnete uns der Besitzer gleich, dass er ausschließlich private Touren in den Park anbietet. Ursprünglich wollten wir schon eine geteilte Tour machen, entschieden uns dann aber naiv und „gedankenlos“ für die Private.
Wir wurden ganz in der Früh abgeholt und zum Nationalpark gefahren. Hier ereilte uns dann der erste Schock: hier warteten etwa hundert weitere Jeeps. Und die meisten waren mit nur zwei Personen besetzt. Uns überkam schnell ein schlechtes Gewissen. Würden sich alle die Jeeps teilen, könnten sicher 2/3 der dreckigen Abgase vermieden werden. Als mir das bewusst wurde, setzte die Scham ein. Ich schämte mich dafür, dass ich depperter Touri hier in meinem fetten Auto saß und gleich in die Natur und den Lebensraum dieser wunderschönen Tiere fahren würde, den ich gleichzeitig zerstöre. Was für eine Farce!
Von jetzt an hatte jedes Glücksgefühl einen fiesen Beigeschmack. Als es dann in den Park hinein ging, wurde es eigentlich nur schlimmer. Sobald es irgendwo ein Tier zu sehen gab, wurde das über Funk an alle Fahrer durchgegeben, sodass alle Jeeps dann zu dieser Stelle eilten. Wir hatten einen älteren und erfahrenen Fahrer, der dabei nicht zu machen schien – unser Glück.
Und auch wenn es getrübte Freude war, war es trotzdem wahnsinnig schön, diese majestätischen Tiere zu sehen, ihnen so nah zu sein. Wir haben wirklich viele Tiere beobachten können. Das absolute Highlight und riesen Glück aber war es, als wir dem Leoparden begegneten. Es wurde über Funk durchgegeben, dass er wohl gesichtet wurde. Unser Fahrer fuhr zwar auch in die Nähe, reihte sich aber nicht in die Schlange der tausend Jeeps ein, sondern fuhr ein paar Straßen weiter. Und dann auf einmal – wow – kam der Leopard nur wenige Meter neben uns aus dem Gebüsch. Wir hatten diesen wunderbaren Augenblick fast für uns alleine. Es waren zu diesem Zeitpunkt nur vielleicht 1-2 ander Fahrzeuge da.
Es ist wohl wirklich eher selten, dass man den Leoparden zu sehen bekommt. Wahnsinn.
Und dann kam die Masse – völlig irre! Wirklich, alle tummelten sich, keiner verhielt sich mehr normal. Das war entsetzlich mit anzusehen und irgendwie ja auch mittendrin und ein Teil dessen zu sein. Furchtbar!
Von diesem Schrecken erholt, ging es für uns weiter durch den Park. Wir konnten noch weitere schöne Tiere sehen. Auf einmal kam ein Elefant neben uns aus den Bäumen und überquerte unsere Straße. Elefanten finde ich toll. Am liebsten wäre ich ihm gefolgt.
Um die Mittagszeit machten wir, wie alle anderen, noch Halt am Meer, bevor es für uns zurück zur Unterkunft ging.
Unser Besuch des Yala Nationalparks verursachte ein Gefühlsdurcheinander bei uns. Ich bin zwar schon froh, diesen Trip gemacht zu haben. Es war wirklich beeindruckend diesen Leoparden aus nächster Nähe und auch alle anderen Tiere zu sehen. Ich würde es aber auf gar keinen Fall mehr als private Tour machen.
Generell führt es dazu, dass ich mich demnächst ausführlicher vorab über die Parks informieren und nach möglichen Alternativen umschauen werde. Diese Scham möchte ich keineswegs noch einmal spüren.
Wir verbrachten noch eine Nacht in unserer Unterkunft. Sie lag mitten in den Reisfeldern und war sehr schön angelegt mit einem Pool und kleinen Rückzugsorten. Sie wird mit viel Herz gepflegt, was man sehen und spüren kann. Und auch der junge Besitzer und seine Familie waren wieder einmal sehr herzlich. Klare Empfehlung. Allerdings auch kein Schnäppchen.
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